What Is Grand Cru Cacao & How To’ak Classifies Chocolate
, by
Stephanie Garr
,
8 min reading time
If you’re an oenophile, you’re likely familiar with the French termcru. This hierarchical system typically signifies a wine’s potential based on the vineyard or terroir. Like the grapes of fine wines, cacao beans are also highly terroir-driven and contain hundreds of aromatic compounds.
After rediscovering Ancient Nacional in Ecuador’s Piedra de Plata over a decade ago, we developed our own cru system to classify cacao according to genetic heritage and rarity. At that point, we made it our mission to identify, protect, and celebrate the last surviving lineages of this historical cacao.
While that objective remains central to our work, To’ak’s cru system has evolved over the years into a broader, more rigorous framework. Yes, genetic purity and rare cacao varietals still matter. But so do propagation, farmers’ livelihoods, regenerative agroforestry, and the delicate craft of turning exceptional cacao into exceptional bean-to-bar chocolate.
Below is a detailed look into To'ak's cru system for single-origin cacao, including how it was created, how it relates to our premium dark chocolate collections, and what it means for the future of regenerative cacao and the stewards who tend to it.
Key Takeaway: Grand Cru is rarer and genetically purer than Premier Cru or Second Cru. But genetics alone do not determine the quality of the finished chocolate. Farming, harvesting, fermentation, drying, roasting, formulation, conching, aging, and storage all matter enormously.
What Is a Cacao Cru System?
Just like with wine, there’s no clearly defined cru system for cacao. This is why we developed our own. While inspired by the French concept linked to terroir (“cru” translates to “growth”), To’ak’s cru system for cacao is centered on cacao genetic heritage and rarity, with a focus on regenerative agroforestry. It includes three classifications: Grand Cru - Ancient Nacional, Premier Cru - Heirloom Nacional, Second Cru - Complejo Nacional.
In 2015, To'ak worked with the Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund, Ecuador’s leading agricultural institute (INIAP), and USDA scientists to analyze DNA samples from 47 cacao trees in Piedra de Plata. Nine tested as 100% Nacional, 31 were at least 70% Nacional, and only five were below 50%. The research then compared those genetic results with pod color and morphology to develop practical field-selection methods.
Upon this discovery, TMA and To’ak jointly created a genetic bank of Ancient Nacional cacao trees in the Jama-Coaque Reserve to prevent its extinction. This eventually led us to our regenerative cacao project, in which we distribute the seedlings of this historic cacao variety to local farmers to help reverse deforestation.
As To’ak and TMA’s work has expanded from preserving rare trees to building a regenerative cacao landscape, our understanding of how we classify Ecuadorian cacao has also evolved. Initially, the To’ak cru system was created to identify and preserve Ancient Nacional. Today, it also serves as a framework for conserving genetic heritage while supporting the future of Ecuadorian cacao through regenerative agriculture.
Along the way, we also came to appreciate that genetics alone do not explain exceptional cacao. Terroir, farming practices, and post-harvest craftsmanship all contribute to the quality of the finished chocolate. Heirloom Nacional from Piedra de Plata is remarkable not only because of its unusually high proportion of Nacional genetics, but also because of the region’s unique soils, climate, and generations of careful stewardship.
How We Classify Cacao by Cru
Simply put, cru describes genetic heritage. It is not, by itself, a complete ranking of sensory superiority. A higher cru doesn’t always automatically produce a better chocolate.
At To’ak, we use three classifications of cacao: Grand Cru, Premier Cru, and Second Cru.
Grand Cru - Ancient Nacional
Grand Cru chocolate is made exclusively from Ancient Nacional cacao sourced from DNA-verified pure Nacional trees or from trees identified as Ancient Nacional through known lineage and the defining characteristics established by To’ak’s original genetic and morphology research.
This includes both old-growth source trees and younger trees propagated from those rare lineages. Grand Cru trees may bepropagated through grafting, a horticultural technique also used in the wine world to preserve provenance, variety, lineage, and quality.
Premier Cru chocolate is made from predominantly Nacional cacao, generally around 70%-99%. These trees retain a close genetic relationship to Ancient Nacional and its characteristic floral aromas, complexity, and fine-flavor profile. They also contain a minority of other cacao genetics, most commonly Criollo, Amelonado, and Upper Amazon Forastero types.
Second Cru chocolate is made from Complejo Nacional, a term for fine-flavor cacao that combines Nacional (generally around 40%-70%) with other cacao genetics. This category includes selected cultivars, including certain INIAP varieties, chosen by To’ak and TMA because they preserve much of Nacional’s sensory identity while supporting regenerative agroforestry.
These include INIAP cultivars selected by To’ak and TMA that preserve much of Nacional's sensory identity while supporting regenerative agroforestry.
FAQ: Is dark chocolate percentage related to its cru classification? No, percentage and cru classification are entirely independent. The percentage refers to the ratio of cacao to sugar in a chocolate bar. The cru refers to the cacao beans’ genetic heritage.
A Quick Note on Methodology
The exact DNA percentages are part of To'ak's working classification system, not universal scientific categories. The To’ak cacao cru system is informed by:
DNA testing
Known tree lineage
Graft or clone identity
Pod and flower morphology
Farm history
Sensory characteristics
Field experience
What About Mixed Cru Batches?
A cacao blend is classified according to the lowest cru represented in the batch.
A batch containing only Grand Cru cacao is Grand Cru.
A batch containing only Grand Cru and Premier Cru cacao is Premier Cru.
A batch containing Premier Cru and Second Cru cacao is Second Cru.
A batch containing all three grades is Second Cru.
What This Means for Cacao Growers
While Grand Cru cacao may be the most coveted, Second Cru (Complejo Nacional) cultivars are important to TMA's regenerative agroforestry program. This is because they can produce substantially more cacao than pure Ancient Nacional while still preserving much of its desirable flavor profile.
This matters for farmer participation. Farmers are unlikely to commit to cacao trees that produce very little fruit, even if the cacao is exceptionally rare. Selected Complejo Nacional cultivars help farmers achieve commercially meaningful yields without abandoning fine-flavor cacao or the broader Nacional heritage. Genetic diversity also promotes adaptation to evolving ecological pressures, such as disease and changes in climate.
What This Means for Luxury Craft Chocolate
The story of exceptional chocolate begins long before a bar reaches your hands. For To’ak, those beginnings can be traced back thousands of years to modern-day Ecuador. As small-batch chocolate pioneers, we began with a singular mission: to rediscover and protect Ancient Nacional. Today, our objective has broadened, with an emphasis on regenerative cacao to help shape the future of Ecuadorian Nacional cacao and build a sustainable landscape that supports a viable livelihood for cacao growers.
To’ak’s cacao cru system is ultimately about preserving one of the world’s rarest cacao lineages while helping the people who grow it build a more resilient future. By combining genetic conservation, regenerative agroforestry, and meticulous chocolate-making, To’ak aims to protect Ecuador’s cacao heritage while also helping shape its future.
*Want to learn more about Ancient Nacional cacao and regenerative cacao? Here's some additional reading:
